Saigon was re-named Ho Chi Minh city in 1975 after the communist north captured the US backed south… the locals today still call it Saigon… but just to quell confusion, both Saigon and Ho Chi Minh City are the same place.
It’s also happens to be Vietnam’s capital!
This incredible city is thriving and is bloats a 10,000,000 population. The streets are flooded with scooters which overflow onto footpaths and although the city isn’t orderly or lovely the way Stockholm or Amsterdam might be, there is an attractive, inviting feeling that blankets you in it’s charm. I love it.
I was there for (just over) 72 hours in early April 2024 and these are some things I suggest you do.
Eating Recommendations in Saigon
- Banh Xeo 46A (Anthony Bourdain Vietnamese Pancake)
I approached this spot on the map with Banh Mi in mind, so when I sat down and reviewed the menu I lulled an adrenaline dump at the Bahn Mi-(less) options. We were about to leave before I saw the meal delivered to the group of the folks seated beside us on our tiny chaired, titanium long table.
They were handed a crispy, golden, folded pancake couched in washed leaves. It looked so big, so appetising and so fresh and my memory jogged for why I’d saved this place on my maps in the first place.
This was the Anthony Bourdain’s spot! He came here to eat a Vietnamese pancake on one of his shows, and hallelujah for him having done so. This place comes highly recommended, and was arguably the best thing I ate on the whole trip. Go there.
- Ngon Restaurant (Nha Hang Ngon)
This restaurant was pure serendipity… we had planned on visiting another place but when we strolled by Ngon there was a ferver which drew us in. There is no true indoors to this place, it’s all open villa style with littered with fans throughout to try and mitigate the sticky heat, but at 6pm this place is chocker block, packed to the brim. This is in contrast to most of other places at this time who were just starting to take their first few roll ins. Plus, it’s worth mentioning that everyone in there was Asian. I get the sense they weren’t Vietnamese (so not a true locals joint), but when in Asia it’s a better sign to be surrounded by Asian tourists than by the Australians, Brits and Americans. But in short, the food is great, it’s not expensive and the menu is huge. Lot’s on offer for everyone. - Cong Ca Phe
Styled top to bottom in Vietcong theme, the staff are donning caps with red stars, green, military themed clothing and there is an overall jungle vibe and aesthetic to the whole place. I’d be keen to know what the Vietnamese think about whether its edgy or uncouth. But based off the numeracy of their franchises, it mustn’t be effecting business. Zoe (my wife’s friend) who was born and raised in Saigon said that we needed to get a coconut coffee from Cong Ca Phe.
This was a hell of a recommendation. If you travel to Saigon while it’s piping hot than the air-conditioned, jungle themed coconut frappe styled coffee will offer a sweet respite. - Little Hanoi Egg Coffee
Look… it’s a touristy place, there is no beating around the bush. You won’t find a Vietnamese in sight whos’e not an employee, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth visiting. The egg coffee is surprisingly good (order it hot), but for vibe and some french influence and history this is a worthwhile place to pop into. Get in early to avoid a line.
- Bahn Mi Huynh Hoa
Most famous Bahn Mi in town – be warned they only serve one sandwich… the classic pork cold cuts Bahn Mi. It’s huge and bursting with fillings and the best Bahn Mi I ate, but I wish I could have ordered it with chicken or something else because there is just something grim about consuming that much fatty pork. Refer to my Food Waste Manifesto. - Bahn Mi Hong Ha
This is where Anthony Bourdain got his Banh Mi. I get the sense his appearance has since spoiled the authenticity of the place… the Bahn Mi itself was fine, but the only people eating there were my fellow tourist. I would suggest you try several Bahn Mi while you’re in town, and roll the dice with the 15,000dong shopping cart on a random street corner. I got one from an unnamed place with egg rather than pork, and it was just as good as the Bahn Mi from this place.
Places to go/things to do
- Ten Thousand Buddha
When you enter the top floor of this apartment building turned Buddhist shrine your diminishing faith in me for asking you to slog it out here will be restored. It is simply magnificent. I’m no Buddhist shrine aficionado, but I’d put it top 3 in the world. I couldn’t imagine how one could be better than this. It’s so unique, so detailed, so grand and unlike any room I’ve ever walked into (it would make for an incredible movie set). It’s nestled behind a very unassuming building facade in a relatively poor district of Saigon. The shrine is 4 floors stacked on top of one another with each additional level building in grandeur to a top floor reveal that will be something you will have not seen before in your life. Guaranteed.
- XO Tours
These guys were magnificent. I spent a few years working in the tours business, and so reckon I’ve got an eye for a dialled in operation. This food tour is so great because it achieves more than a culinary adventure. XO offers you backseat of a scooter through Saigon without the risk of renting one yourself, nor the stress of having to drive in these chaotic streets. Your local guide drives you through town on her scooter (with everyone else in the group matched on theirs) and you are given a contemporary introduction to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). The experience is so authentic, the food is so good, and the level of understanding you will imbibe over the course of the evening is going to richen your time in Saigon greatly. Details of the local property market (ripe for my Aussies). Details on Japanese, Korean immigration, culturally how the locals feel about it. The differences in class between districts, an explanation for why Saigon is the way it is. And plus, what is the real cherry on top of this tour is all the time you spend speaking with your XO Tours’s driver and partner. It feels like a locals only experience.
- Saigon Post Office
It’s going to feature on every list of things to do. It’s not overly special but is one of those things that feels like it’d be missing if you didn’t do it. - Ca Phe Do Phu
Do not sleep on this beauty. Get there early, soon after the open, and you will have an extremely unique experience that will add so much colour to your trip. It was where the communists in the American occupied south would meet in clandestine. The museam is attached to a cafe with a very communistic shrine at it’s centre… refer to video.
- Monkey island
Here’s one which is definitionally off the beaten track, but as well one which even the locals where unfamiliar with… across the river on the ferry and about a 2 hour drive from downtown Saigon, this a little plot of land reserved as ‘monkey island’… It’s all in the name, talk about truth in advertising.
You walk a trail in and amongst the mangroves, saturated with 100’s of cheeky little macaques towards an old military base from the Vietnam War. A word of warning, although a highly recommend you do this if you’ve got the time, it’s not for the faint hearted… these monkeys will attempt to touch you and steal things form you. Me and Emma saw three (3) different people lose their glasses straight from their wearers head. They are mischievous little fellas who have become very accustomed to the tourists humans who walk through
Final thoughts…
1,000,000dong is only 60 bucks, so don’t feel overly intimidated by the giant sums of money you seem to be withdrawing from the ATM.
GET A VISA – if you’re Australian, you need to apply for a visa minimum 1 week before you fly. There were people in my queue for checking in knocked back. It’s serious, don’t ruin your trip before you leave.
Smile and embrace these people. The city is wonderful, you’ll never eat better and as long as you keep your wits about you, you’ll be safe wherever you wonder into…
